Welcome to the world of shaving
Welcome to the world of shaving. Despite the daily shaving ritual, many men are ignorant about shaving. That is why in this blog we briefly and concisely explain shaving from A to Z.
Introduction to shaving
Shaving is all about preparation, optimal protection and nourishment of the skin and a comfortable, fresh and smooth shave. Start by cleansing your skin, use lukewarm water and possibly a pre-shave cream or oil. Then apply the shaving foam, shaving gel or shaving cream over the pre-shave. Apply the shaving cream or soap with warm water and a shaving brush and lather. Take your time. This makes the beard hairs soft. The softer the better! And just shave. After shaving, rinse with cold water. Cool the skin with an after shave splash. Neutralize soap residue and normalize the pH of your skin with an alum block. Or soothe your skin with a nourishing after shave balm. And as a finishing touch, apply a little bit of soothing talcum powder to the freshly shaved skin. Finished!
Start cleaning
Regular hand soap dries out the skin. You will then shave over this with a metal razor. Uncomfortable! So, don't. Cleanse the face with a pH-neutral cleansing gel . Nice and fresh and you don't get dry skin. Maximum shaving comfort starts with the right preparation.
More shaving comfort with a pre-shave
Shaving foam or shaving soap are slightly alkaline and may degrease the skin slightly. So prevent the skin from drying out. Use a pre-shave cream or oil before shaving. A pre-shave also provides an extra buffer between skin and blade. Apply a pre-shave cream or oil with your fingers. Massage in. Just let it sit, do not rinse. The shaving foam goes over the pre-shave. We're repeating ourselves: maximum shaving comfort starts with the right preparation.
Barber tip
The pre-shave also includes the 'hot towel' treatment. Before applying the pre-shave oil, wrap the face with a damp (hot water) cotton cloth for a few minutes.
Barber tip
Do you have dry skin yourself? Or do you suffer from dry, chapped or tight skin after shaving? Always use a pre-shave product before shaving. Do you hate oil on your fingers? Then use a pre-shave cream. If you prefer a firm protective layer, it is better to use a thick, lobed pre-shave oil.
Shaving foam, shaving soap, shaving cream and shaving gel
Shaving foam, shaving soap, cream or gel soften the beard hairs, protect and nourish the skin. But what should you choose? Are you going for efficiency and convenience? Then use a ready-made shaving foam from a can. Do you want a super smooth and fresh shave, maximum shaving comfort and as few shaving irritations as possible during and after shaving? Then use a shaving soap or cream. A transparent shaving gel or a handy and transparent shaving oil are ideal for precision shaving of the beard contours and along ring and sideburns.
You will get the most comfortable shave and the smoothest shaving result with a classic shaving soap or shaving cream , warm water and the shaving brush. Take your time. Make sure the beard hairs become soft. Lather the shaving soap or shaving cream onto the skin with warm water and a shaving brush for at least 1 minute. This softens beard hairs and gives you a full, greasy shaving foam layer on your skin. The various nourishing oils and fats in these shaving products nourish the skin. This provides more comfort during and after shaving.
Barber tip
Many men have sensitive skin. If necessary, use unscented and paraben-free shaving products.
Barber tip
After shaving, rinse the skin with cold water. Pat - don't rub - the freshly shaved skin dry with a clean cotton cloth.
The shaving brush
The function of the shaving brush is to apply shaving foam and soften the beard hairs. Shaving soap or cream should be foamed with warm water and the shaving brush. Wet the shaving brush with lukewarm water. Stir briefly in the shaving soap container. Or put a little shaving cream on the shaving brush. Continue to foam the shaving soap onto the face. Move the shaving brush back and forth over the face. Take your time. Beard hairs should become soft. The softer the beard hairs, the easier the hairs are cut.
After use, rinse the shaving brush thoroughly and hang it upside down on a shaving brush holder . This makes the brush last longer and you can enjoy your shaving brush for longer.
There are 3 types of shaving brushes:
- Badger hair shaving brushes : soft bristles, feels pleasant on the skin, quickly produces a full shaving foam, 100% natural, wide range
- Pig bristle shaving brushes : slightly stiffer bristles, produces a lot of shaving foam, 100% natural, competitively priced
- Synthetic bristle shaving brushes : soft bristles, feels pleasant on the skin, produces a lot of shaving foam, animal-friendly, wide range
Barber tip
Are you vegetarian or vegan or are you perhaps allergic to animal hair? Then use a shaving brush with synthetic bristles.
Getting started with the safety razor
The safety razor or scraper is experiencing a revival. Why should you shave with a classic safety razor? You will suffer less from razor burn. It prevents ingrown beard hairs. Huge range of razor holders and various double edge razor blades. This allows the holder and razor blade to be much better tailored to the type of (normal to sensitive) skin and/or (light to heavy) beard growth. The cost aspect: one separate razor blade costs an average of €0.30.
The safety razor razor holder and the double edge razor blade are a worldwide universal shaving system. All razor blades from the different brands fit in all razor holders.
Shaving with the safety razor is no more difficult or easier than the modern Gillette cartridge razor. But how should you shave with this razor? Below is a brief instruction:
- Hold the razor lightly and smoothly with 2 or 3 fingers (between your thumb and index and long fingers)
- Hold the razor at an angle of approximately 30 degrees to the skin.
- Apply as little pressure as possible; the knife has to do its job.
- Shave with gentle movements.
- Start with the sideburns and cheeks, then the neck and finally the chin and mustache area.
- Shave with the beard hairs as much as possible and then against the beard hairs if necessary.
- For a really super smooth shaving result: soap your face again and then shave against the beard hairs.
- Now hold the razor at the bottom of the handle as much as possible with 2 or 3 fingers.
- Don't forget to rinse the razor while shaving.
Barber tip
With various safety razors, the angle of the razor blade can be adjusted. This allows the razor to be tailored to your personal shaving technique.
Barber tip
With the safety razor you can shave the beard contours much better and tighter than with the modern Mach3 or Fusion razor.
Shaving with a straight razor
The ultimate shaving is of course shaving with the old-fashioned straight razor . According to many men, the straight razor gives a super close shave. Please note, shaving with this knife is learning to shave again. This razor is the most durable shaving system. If you maintain the knife well, you can later pass it on to your grandson. The straight razor does require maintenance. For example, if you use it every day, you also have to polish the blade over the razor strap every day. The razor becomes blunt after frequent use. So about once a year you have to sharpen it with a sharpening stone.
Use the razor safely and carefully! Practice around the sideburns and cheeks at first. After a few days you can carefully shave the chin and neck area. But how should you shave with a straight razor?
- Hold the razor lightly and smoothly with your fingertips.
- Hold the razor between your thumb and 2 fingers - see instruction drawing.
- Place the shaving foil flat on the skin.
- Hold the razor at an angle of 10-30 degrees to the skin.
- Use a slightly smaller angle on the cheek, chin and upper lip.
- Also use the correct angle at the curves of the chin.
- Press the razor very lightly on the skin.
- First shave with the beard hairs.
- While shaving, stretch the skin with the other hand.
- Shave with small, steady, even strokes.
- Start with the sideburns and cheeks, then the neck and finally the chin and mustache area.
- Don't forget to rinse the razor while shaving.
- After shaving with the beard growth, if necessary, the finishing touch: shave against the beard growth.
- Soap the face again.
- Now shave with short, gentle strokes.
Straight razor maintenance
Just like cars, the straight razor will last longer if it is maintained regularly. Good maintenance contributes to shaving comfort.
After use, clean the knife and store it dry. Polish the razor before or after each shave with the leather ironing strap . 20 to 30 back and forth movements over the ironing belt should be sufficient. Depending on use, the razor should be sharpened with the sharpening stone after 8 to 12 months.
Barber tip
Lay the razor strap flat on a table. This allows you to better polish the razor over the belt.
Shave with the shavette razor
The straight razor requires daily maintenance. Not everyone likes maintenance. The straight razor is a costly investment. A shavette razor requires no maintenance. The most affordable shavette starts from €15.
You can insert loose, interchangeable single edge razor blades into the Shavette razor. This means you always have a sharp razor. The length of the shaving foil of the shavette is approximately 5 cm. This makes it ideal for maintaining your beard. You can shave the mustache and beard contours very well.
Also use the shavette safely and carefully! Practice around the sideburns and cheeks at first. After a few days you can carefully shave the chin and neck area. Shaving with the shavette is the same as using a straight razor.
Easy and smooth shaving with the cartridge razor
The modern cartridge razor from Gillette or Wilkinson naturally needs little explanation. Millions of men shave every day with this razor system. It shaves easily, smoothly, comfortably and smoothly. It is suitable for all types of skin and beard.
Barber tip
You should put as little pressure on the skin as possible while shaving. The knife has to do its job. The heavier the razor, the less pressure you will apply. The Edwin Jagger and Muhle razor holders are heavier than the standard plastic handles from Gillette or Wilkinson. This ultimately provides more shaving comfort and a smooth shave.
The post-processing: after shave treatment
The pH value of men's skin is 6-7. By using shaving products on your skin, the pH value becomes 10-11. When you shave, you scrape off part of the protective stratum corneum. After shaving you need to normalize the pH value and restore or repair your skin. That is why the after shave treatment is super important. The first step is to rinse your skin with nice, cold, fresh water after shaving.
After shaving you can use a lovely fresh alcohol after shave splash or a soothing, nourishing after shave balm. This of course depends on what you like or what is pleasant for your skin.
The after shave splash
If you have normal to oily skin, an old-fashioned alcohol-based after shave is wonderfully refreshing and cooling. The alcohol disinfects and cools. An after shave also contains some caring ingredients, such as glycerin and Aloe Vera extracts. It contains few fragrance ingredients, making it suitable for freshly shaved skin. Just put a few drops in your hand and splash on the skin.
The after shave balm
If you have sensitive or dry skin, it is better to use a nourishing and soothing after shave balm . Do you quickly suffer from a chafing or burning sensation after shaving? Then also use a balm. The various caring and nourishing ingredients quickly penetrate the skin and do their work. This will quickly relax your skin. The skin-repairing ingredients in many balms repair the skin.
Barber tip
Many men have sensitive skin. If necessary, use unscented after shave products.
Finishing with alum
An underrated after shave product is the alum block . Alum is a natural mineral and has been used by barbers for centuries. All soaps, shaving creams, shaving soaps and shaving creams are basic and increase the pH of the skin. Alum is an acid and has a lower pH value. Alum neutralizes the soap components. It contributes to normalizing the pH value of the skin. It also has a disinfectant and astringent effect. During shaving, the skin pores open. Alum ensures that they close again.
Alum also has a haemostatic effect. We all know those handy little alum markers. Do you have a razor burn while shaving? Just wet the marker and dab it on the wound. The bleeding stops immediately. An alum block is slightly less concentrated and has only a mild astringent effect.
After the after shave splash, wet the alum block with cold water and rub over the newly shaved area. Some customers do the alum first and then the after shave.
If you prefer to use a balm, apply alum before or after the after shave balm. You have to find out for yourself which order is the correct one.
Finishing touch with talcum powder
Talcum powder is also an underestimated after shave product. Every traditional barber uses talcum powder after shaving.
Talcum powder is made from the mineral magnesium silicate. For cosmetic use, the mineral is ground super finely and purified. Talcum powder softens the skin. It reduces the chapped and tight feeling of the skin after shaving. It also absorbs moisture and sebum. This gives you a pleasant and comfortably soft feeling on the skin all day long.
After the after shave or balm, put a tiny bit of talcum powder in your hand. Just distribute the powder in your palm and then apply and distribute on the freshly shaved skin.
Barber tip
Many men have oily skin. If you use talcum powder in the morning on freshly shaved skin, you will have less trouble with greasy skin during the day. Talcum powder absorbs moisture. If you sweat a lot during hot days, also use talcum powder.
Finally, your favorite cologne or men's perfume
At the end comes your cologne or perfume. It is of course nice if the scent matches your shaving soap or aftershave product. In addition to their shaving product, the various shaving brands have a cologne or perfume that match well in terms of scent.
The perfumes of the Italian Acca Kappa are very popular. The 1896 and White Moss are complete product/fragrance lines: shaving soap, after shave balm through to shampoo and perfume. The well-known classic English brands also have extensive fragrance lines, such as DR Harris , Geo F Trumper , Taylor of Old Bond Street and Truefitt and Hill . Their Sandalwood product ranges have many enthusiasts. The Italian Saponificio Varesino has a huge range of different fragrance lines: shaving soap, after shave, perfume and shower gel.
