Welcome to the world of shaving
Welcome to the world of shaving. Despite the daily shaving ritual, many men are unaware about shaving. That is why in this blog we briefly and concisely explain shaving from A to Z.
Introduction to shaving
Shaving is all about preparation, optimally protecting and nourishing the skin, and a comfortable, fresh, and smooth shaving result. Start by cleansing your skin, use lukewarm water and optionally a pre shave cream or oil. Then apply shaving foam, gel, or cream over the pre shave. Apply and lather the shaving cream or soap with warm water and a shaving brush. Take your time. This softens the beard hairs. The softer, the better! And start shaving. Rinse off with cold water after shaving. Cool the skin with an after shave splash. Neutralize soap residues and normalize your skin's pH with an alum block. Or soothe your skin with a nourishing after shave balm. And as a finishing touch, optionally a little softening talcum powder on the freshly shaved skin. Done!
Start with cleansing
Regular hand soap dries out the skin. Then you shave over it with a metal razor. Not comfortable! So, don't do it. Cleanse the face with a pH-neutral cleansing gel. Nice and fresh and you won't get dry skin. Maximum shaving comfort starts with the right preparation.
More shaving comfort with a pre shave
Shaving foam or shaving soap are slightly basic and may slightly degrease the skin. So prevent skin dryness. Use a pre shave cream or oil before shaving. A pre shave also provides an extra buffer between skin and blade. Apply a pre shave cream or oil with your fingers. Massage it in briefly. Just leave it on, do not rinse off. The shaving foam goes over the pre shave. We repeat: maximum shaving comfort starts with the right preparation.
Barber tip
Part of the pre shave is also the 'hot towel' treatment. Before applying the pre shave oil, wrap the face for a few minutes with a moist (hot water) cotton cloth.
Barber tip
Do you naturally have dry skin? Or do you experience dry, chapped, or tight skin after shaving? Then always use a pre shave product before shaving. Do you dislike oil on your fingers? Then use a pre shave cream. If you prefer a firm protective layer, it's better to use a thick, viscous pre shave oil.
Shaving foam, shaving soap, shaving cream, and shaving gel
Shaving foam, shaving soap, cream, or gel soften the beard hairs, protect, and nourish the skin. But what should you choose? Are you going for efficiency and convenience? Then use a ready-to-use shaving foam from a can. Do you want a super smooth and fresh shaving result, maximum shaving comfort, and as little shaving irritation as possible during and after shaving? Then use a shaving soap or cream. A transparent shaving gel or a handy and transparent shaving oil are especially suitable for precision shaving of beard contours and along sideburns and mutton chops.
The most comfortable shave and the smoothest shaving result come from a classic shaving soap or shaving cream, warm water, and the shaving brush. Take your time. Make sure the beard hairs become soft. Lather the shaving soap or cream with warm water and the shaving brush on the skin for at least 1 minute. This softens the beard hairs and creates a rich, creamy shaving foam layer on your skin. The various nourishing oils and fats in these shaving products nourish the skin. This ensures more comfort during and after shaving.
Barber tip
Many men have sensitive skin. Optionally use unscented and paraben-free shaving products.
Barber tip
After shaving, rinse the skin with cold water. Pat - do not rub - the freshly shaved skin dry with a clean cotton cloth.
The shaving brush
The function of the shaving brush is to apply shaving foam and soften the beard hairs. Shaving soap or cream must be lathered with warm water and the shaving brush. Wet the shaving brush with lukewarm water. Stir briefly in the shaving soap dish. Or put a little shaving cream on the shaving brush. Further lather the shaving soap on the face. Move the shaving brush back and forth over the face. Take your time. Beard hairs must become soft. The softer the beard hairs, the easier the hairs can be trimmed.
After use, rinse the shaving brush well and hang it upside down on a shaving brush holder. This makes the brush last longer and you will enjoy your shaving brush for a longer time.
There are 3 types of shaving brushes:
- Shaving brushes with badger hair: soft hairs, feels pleasant on the skin, quickly produces a full shaving foam, 100% natural, large assortment
- Shaving brushes with pig hair: slightly stiffer hairs, produces a lot of shaving foam, 100% natural, affordably priced
- Shaving brushes with synthetic hairs: soft hairs, feels pleasant on the skin, produces a lot of shaving foam, animal-friendly, large assortment
Barber tip
Are you a vegetarian or vegan or perhaps allergic to animal hairs? Then use a shaving brush with synthetic hairs.
Getting started with the safety razor
The safety razor or 'krabbertje' is experiencing a revival. Why should you shave with a classic safety razor? You experience less shaving irritation. It prevents ingrown beard hairs. Huge range of razor holders and different double edge razor blades. This allows the holder and the razor blade to be much better matched to the type of (normal to sensitive) skin and/or (light to heavy) beard growth. The cost aspect: one loose razor blade costs on average € 0.30.
The safety razor holder and the double edge razor blade are a worldwide universal shaving system. All razor blades from different brands fit into all razor holders.
Shaving with the safety razor is neither harder nor easier than the modern Gillette cartridge razor. But how do you shave with this razor? Below is a brief instruction:
- Hold the razor lightly and flexibly with 2 or 3 fingers (between thumb and index and middle finger)
- Hold the razor at an angle of about 30 degrees relative to the skin.
- Apply as little pressure as possible; the blade should do its work.
- Shave with calm movements.
- Start at the sideburns and cheeks, then the neck, and finally the chin and mustache area.
- Shave as much as possible with the grain and optionally afterwards against the grain.
- For a truly super smooth shave: lather the face again and then shave against the grain.
- Now hold the razor as much as possible at the bottom of the handle with 2 or 3 fingers.
- Don't forget to rinse the razor clean during shaving.
Barber tip
On various safety razors, the angle of the blade can be adjusted. This allows the razor to be tailored to the personal shaving technique.
Barber tip
Compared to the modern Mach3 or Fusion razor, the safety razor allows you to shave beard contours much better and tighter.
Shaving with a straight razor
The ultimate shave is of course shaving with the old-fashioned straight razor. According to many men, the straight razor shaves super smooth. Note, shaving with this razor means learning to shave again. This razor is the most sustainable shaving system. If you maintain the blade well, you can pass it on to your grandson later. The straight razor does require maintenance. For example, if you use it every day, you must also polish the blade daily on the strop. The razor becomes dull after frequent use. So about once a year you need to sharpen it with a sharpening stone.
Use the razor safely and carefully! Practice at first around the sideburns and cheeks. After a few days you can carefully shave the chin and neck area. But how do you shave with the straight razor?
- Hold the razor lightly and flexibly with the fingertips.
- Hold the razor between thumb and 2 fingers - see instruction drawing.
- Place the razor blade flat on the skin.
- Keep the razor at an angle of 10-30 degrees relative to the skin.
- Use a slightly smaller angle at the cheek, chin, and upper lip.
- Also handle the correct angle around the curves of the chin.
- Press the razor very lightly on the skin.
- First shave with the direction of the beard hairs.
- Pull the skin taut with the other hand while shaving.
- Shave with small, calm, even movements.
- Start at the sideburns and cheeks, then the neck, and finally the chin and mustache area.
- Don't forget to rinse the razor during shaving.
- After shaving with the grain, if necessary, do the finishing touch: shave against the grain.
- Lather the face again.
- Now shave with short, careful movements.
Straight razor maintenance
Just like cars, the straight razor lasts longer if it is regularly maintained. Good maintenance contributes to shaving comfort.
After use, clean the blade and store it dry. Polish the razor before or after each shave with the leather strop. 20 to 30 back-and-forth movements over the strop should be sufficient. Depending on use, the razor should be sharpened after 8 to 12 months with the whetstone.
Barber tip
Lay the strop flat on a table. This allows you to better polish the razor over the strop.
Shaving with the shavette razor
The straight razor requires daily maintenance. Not everyone likes maintenance. The straight razor is a costly investment. A shavette razor requires no maintenance. The most affordable shavette starts from € 15,-.
In the shavette razor, you can insert loose replaceable single edge blades. This way, you always have a sharp razor. The length of the shavette blade is about 5 cm. This makes it extremely suitable for maintaining your beard. You can very well shave the mustache and beard contours.
Also use the shavette safely and carefully! Practice at first around the sideburns and cheeks. After a few days, you can carefully shave the chin and neck area. Shaving with the shavette is the same as with the straight razor.
Easy and smooth shaving with the cartridge razor
The modern cartridge razor from Gillette or Wilkinson needs little explanation. Millions of men shave daily with this razor system. It shaves easily, smoothly, comfortably, and cleanly. It is suitable for every skin and beard type.
Barber tip
You should apply as little pressure as possible on the skin during shaving. The blade must do its work. The heavier the razor, the less pressure you will apply. The razor holders from Edwin Jagger and Muhle are heavier than the standard plastic handles from Gillette or Wilkinson. This ultimately provides more shaving comfort and a smooth shaving result.
The post-shave treatment: after shave treatment
The pH value of men's skin is 6-7. By using shaving products on your skin, the pH value becomes 10-11. During shaving, you scrape off part of the protective horny layer. After shaving, you need to normalize the pH value again and restore or repair your skin. That is why the after shave treatment is super important. The first step is to rinse your skin clean with nice cold and fresh water after shaving.
After shaving, you can use either a wonderfully fresh alcohol after shave splash or a soothing nourishing after shave balm. Of course, this depends on what you like or what is comfortable for your skin.
The after shave splash
If you have normal to oily skin, an old-fashioned alcohol-based after shave is wonderfully refreshing and cooling. The alcohol disinfects and cools. An after shave also contains some nourishing ingredients, such as glycerin and Aloe Vera extracts. It contains few fragrance components, making it suitable for freshly shaved skin. Just put a few drops in your hand and splash it nicely on your skin.
The after shave balm
If you have sensitive or dry skin, it is better to use a nourishing and soothing after shave balm. Do you often experience a tight or burning sensation after shaving? Then also use a balm. The various nourishing and moisturizing ingredients quickly absorb into the skin and do their work. This helps your skin calm down quickly. The skin-repairing components in many balms repair the skin.
Barber tip
Many men have sensitive skin. If necessary, use unscented after shave products.
Post-shave treatment with alum
An underrated after shave product is the alum block. Alum is a natural mineral and has been used by barbers for centuries. All soaps, shaving foam, shaving soaps, and shaving creams are basic and increase the skin's pH value. Alum is an acid and has a lower pH value. Alum neutralizes the soap components. It helps normalize the skin's pH value. It also has a disinfecting and astringent effect. During shaving, the skin pores open. Alum ensures that they close again.
Alum also has a blood-stopping effect. We all know those handy small alum sticks. Do you have a shaving cut during shaving? Just wet the stick and dab on the wound. The bleeding stops immediately. An alum block is a bit less concentrated and has only a mild blood-stopping effect.
After the after shave splash, wet the alum block with cold water and rub it over the freshly shaved area. Some customers apply the alum first and then the after shave.
If you prefer to use a balm, you must apply alum either before or after the after shave balm. You have to find out for yourself which order is right.
Finishing touch with talcum powder
Also an underrated after shave product is talcum powder. Every traditional barber uses talcum powder after shaving.
Talcum powder is made from the mineral magnesium silicate. For cosmetic use, the mineral is ground super fine and purified. Talcum powder softens the skin. It reduces the chapped and tight feeling of the skin after shaving. It also absorbs moisture and sebum. This gives you a pleasant and comfortably soft feeling on the skin all day long.
After the after shave or balm, put a very small amount of talcum powder in your hand. Distribute the powder in your palm and then apply and spread it on the freshly shaved skin.
Barber tip
Many men have oily skin. If you use talcum powder in the morning on the freshly shaved skin, you will have less trouble with oily skin during the day. Talcum powder absorbs moisture. If you sweat a lot during warm days, also use talcum powder.
Finally, your favorite cologne or men's perfume
At the end, optionally, comes your cologne or perfume. Of course, it's nice if the scent of this matches your shaving soap or aftershave product. The various shaving brands have, besides their shaving product, a cologne or perfume that matches well in scent.
The perfumes from the Italian Acca Kappa are very popular. The 1896 and White Moss are complete product/fragrance lines: shaving soap, after shave balm, up to shampoo and perfume. The well-known classic English brands also have extensive fragrance lines, such as DR Harris, Geo F Trumper, Taylor of Old Bond Street and Truefitt and Hill. Their Sandalwood product ranges have many fans. The Italian Saponificio Varesino has an enormous range of different fragrance lines: shaving soap, after shave, perfume and shower gel.
