Tips and information about the straight razor

• First, start with a shavette razor or an affordable straight razor. Razors are available from €80.
• 5/8" (= inch) wide razor is a common size.
• A razor with a rounded point at the end is less likely to cause cuts.
• Carbon steel razors are easier to sharpen and polish. Carbon steel rusts faster than stainless steel.
• The current straight razor is usually Full-hollow-ground (hollow ground). The advantage of this is easier sharpening and smooth handling while shaving.

• The straight razor is also suitable for heavy beard growth.
• 6/8" (= inch) wide razor is best suited for shaving heavy beard growth.

• A straight razor will last a lifetime if it is properly maintained and stored.
• A straight razor is vulnerable. Be careful, avoid breaking and store it properly.

The head or tip of the shaving foil

• Rounded tip, most razors have a rounded tip
• Semi rounded tip
• Unrounded or square point

Different widths of the shaving foil

• 3/8" (= inches)
• 4/8"
• 5/8", is the most common size and very suitable to start with
• 6/8", is a common size and suitable for heavy beard growth
• 7/8"
• 8/8"

The cut or concavity of the shaving foil (see image below)

• Flat ground
• Full-hollow-ground is the most common cut
• 3/4 hollow ground

What steel the razor is made of

• Carbon steel or carbon steel is widely used for razors. It is easy to sharpen. This makes it very suitable for the novice shearer. Carbon steel can rust. So maintain it well and store it dry.
• Silver steel
• Stainless steel (stainless steel) is also widely used for razors. Stainless steel is harder and therefore more difficult to sharpen. Stainless steel does not rust.
• Damascus steel

• Only use the straight razor for shaving. Do not test the sharpness of the razor on paper.
• Never touch the edge with your fingers to see if it is still sharp
• Don't walk around with an open razor. Always close after use.
• Close the razor slowly to prevent the blade from catching in the handle.
• After use, blow the razor thoroughly dry and, if necessary, open it to let it dry.
• If the razor accidentally falls from your hand, drop it and do not try to catch it.
• Always wear clothes when shaving. Don't shave naked in the shower.
• It is best not to store the razor in a damp room, such as the bathroom.
• Store the razor safely out of the reach of children.

Clean the skin beforehand with soap or a pH-neutral cleansing gel .

• Wet the face with lukewarm water.
• Use one if necessary pre shave oil or gel for extra protection while shaving.
• Soap the face well with a shaving soap or shaving cream .
• Let the shaving foam work for a while. This makes the beard hairs soft and soft.
• Use your favorite hand to shave both the right and left sides of your face. Pull the skin taut with the other hand.
• Hold the razor lightly and smoothly with your fingertips.
• Hold the razor between your thumb and 3 fingers - see instruction drawing
• Hold the razor at an angle of 10 degrees to the skin. Use a slightly smaller angle on the cheek, chin and upper lip. Also use the correct angle (10 degrees) at the curves of the chin.
• Press the razor very lightly on the skin. Do not slide the shaving foil straight down, but make a slight angle. This causes the shaving foil to make a more oblique cutting movement.
• First shave with the beard hairs.
• While shaving, stretch the skin with the other hand.
• Shave with gentle, small and even strokes.
• Start with the sideburns and cheeks, then the neck and finally the chin and mustache area.
• Don't forget to rinse the razor while shaving.

The maintenance of the open razor naturally depends on the type of razor and the degree of use.

The way of maintenance is personal. The steps of maintenance below are a theoretical description.

There are 4 steps in the maintenance of the open razor. Targeting, polishing and grinding are the most important steps of maintenance.

Before every shave:

• To target
• Polish

The finishing touch:

• To turn on

If the razor is blunt after a while:

• Sharpen 

• Rinse it razor Good clean after use.
• Polishes the razor dry with soft paper, for example tissue paper.
• Make it dry after shaving. If necessary, use a hairdryer to dry the knife.
• Always store the razor in a dry place. So not in the bathroom.
• Knives that are not used for a long time is best to be rubbed first with oil.

• This of course depends on the use of the open razor.
• If the open razor pulls instead of cutting.
• If the razor is blunt.

The leather string strap has a leather and a canvas side:

• The leather side is for polishing the knife.
• The canvas side is for cleaning or targeting the shaving leaf.

The ironing strap must be used in advance any shave for aiming and polishing the razor.

The tension strap is for the finishing touch and can - depending on the use of the razor - be used once a month.

The tensioning belt can also be used as an alternative to the leather string string. In this case, the tension strap must be used in advance each shave.

There are 4 types of ironing paste:

• Yellow iron
• Green iron
• Red iron
• White iron

The yellow ironing pasta is a fat pasta that cares and protects the leather of the ironing strap. This means that the strings lasts longer.

The green ironing paste has a strong polishing effect and is applied to the leather of the Span belt.

The red ironing paste has a medium polishing effect and is applied to the leather of the tension strap.

The white ironing paste is for the maintenance of the canvas side of the ironing strap. This cleans the canvas side again and lasts longer.

• The Ardennes Coticule sharpening stone or Belgian blue whetstone from the Ardennes is the best whetstone for sharpening and maintaining the open razor. 
• This sharpening stone has a yellow coticule top stone with a grit (grain) of 6000 - 8000 and a blue bottom with a grit of 4000.
• Only the yellow top is suitable for sharpening the razor.